Because, once absorbed through skin barrier, Nicomenthyl slowly releases niacin (Vitamin B3) into the skin. Niacin is the precursor of coenzyme NAD (Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide), that is the most important biochemical factor responsible for skin barrier integrity. NAD is used in over 450 biochemical reactions, most of which are involved with crucial anabolic and catabolic functions, such as: cell energy production (ATP), chromosome stability, DNA repair, immune cell signaling, redox reactions, epidermal renewal, cell longevity mechanisms, etc.
Mechanism of action and properties
The main benefits of enhanced blood flow are: a) increased supply of oxygen, nutrients and glucose b) removal of cellular waste products c) enhanced skin barrier integrity.
Skin Barrier Integrity is an extremely important concept in skin care. It mainly refers to the stratum corneum (outermost layer of the epidermis) and describes the strength and resilience of the skin and how well it protects the internal tissues and organs from external aggressions. Desquamation (shedding) of skin barrier helps remove bacteria and other infectious agents that have adhered to the epithelial surfaces.
The unique and modulated sensory effect which characterizes Nicomenthyl is particularly long-lasting. Its typical fresh tingling sensation can still be perceived even one hour after the application, depending of course on the concentration being used and the type of finished product containing it.
Through the two moieties of its molecule (i.e. the niacinic vaso-active warming moiety and the menthyl cooling one), Nicomenthyl, duly dosed and solubilized in cosmetic finished products, exerts also a kind of “modulator” and synergistic effect over several other sensorial agents. These, when used in combination with Nicomenthyl, extend their efficacy in time with a less aggressive impact on the skin.
The sensorial strenght of Nicomenthyl depends: 1) on its concentration in the finished product 2) on the type of cosmetic formulation (water-based emulsion, hydroalcoholic lotions, fatty or anhydrous compositions, etc. 3) on the presence or absence in formulation of carriers such as: solubilizers, glycols, alcohols, light oils with high spreading values, etc. 4) on the body area where the product is applied.
The best way to evaluate the sensorial strength and longevity of Nicomenthyl is to apply on the lips a cosmetic water-based composition containing it at a concentration of 3%.
Nicomenthyl may be used in all kinds of cosmetic products at the following recommended concentrations:
Face Products: 0.5 – 1%
Body Products: 0.5 – 3%
Special Products (such as skin barrier enhancing serums, cellulite intensive treatment and prevention, intensive hair loss preventive treatments, legs toning and anti-fatigue treatments, etc.): 5%
If Nicomenthyl is neither irritating nor sensitizing, why can’t it be used at higher concentrations (i.e. 10, 20, 30% or more) on the skin?
Because such high concentrations are useless and needless. For concentrations higher than those recommended, the amount of niacin released into the skin by the hydrolyzation of menthyl nicotinate could produce a vasodilation (niacin-flush) much stronger than necessary, and that result could be bothersome though still not dangerous.
In some cases it can even improve it. As a matter of fact, Nicomenthyl, because of its high boiling point, may act as a fixative of the more volatile fractions, thus reducing their vanishing rate and bettering the whole fragrance longevity.
Yes, it is. The time-release high transcutaneous delivery of Vitamin B3 and the enhancement of skin microcirculation produced by Nicomenthyl are key factors for oxygenating, transporting nutrients and glucose, removing cellular waste products in all types of skin.